“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.”
― John Muir
This is a story of my need for wilderness solitude, The naturalist John Muir and a horse pack trip into the Sierra Mountains of California.
My Wilderness addiction began 50 years ago when my mother dropped my dog Chester and I off at a trailhead outside the town of Darrington, WA. Our adventure would lead us across the Cascade Mountains, through the Glacier Peak Wilderness Area to Lake Chelan. I was 14 years old and looking back on it now, I can say that this was one of the best things she’s ever done for me. That 5-day, 4-night, 40-mile walk through the wilderness altered my DNA and cemented a deep need to wander the Cascade Mountain high country.
A couple of years later I discovered the writings of John Muir. John Muir was a 19th-century naturalist who campaigned for the preservation of wilderness to be savored by future generations. Muir’s efforts led to the creation of Yosemite National Park in 1890 as well as Sequoia, Grand Canyon, and Mount Rainier National Parks. He also co-founded the Sierra Club in 1892. Today the Sierra Club has more than 3.8 million members. Its goal is the continued protection of the wilderness for people and future generations to experience and enjoy. To summarize what I feel we all owe this man or to describe his accomplishments in a single paragraph is not possible. As this is not a story about John Muir, I’ll leave it to you, if interested, to seek out and learn more on your own.
Flash forward 50 years and I can no longer bare the weight of a pack so multi-day trips in the backcountry have not been possible. One morning while surfing the web I discovered a 5-day horse-pack, photography trip into the central Sierra Mountain high country. The idea of packing my load on a mule and riding a horse to once again get above the tree line and gaze upon and explore the same peaks that so inspired John Muir over 130 years before. Sign me up!
“The mountains are calling and I must go.”
― John Muir
The sun was shining as we left Rock Creek Pack Station winding our way through the Pine, Juniper, and shimmering Aspen forests of the eastern Sierras. The trail grew increasingly rocky as we climbed up out of the valley. I was impressed with how Rock Creeks trail horses handled the rocky trails, well trained and experienced. As we climbed ever higher toward the 12,000 foot Mono Pass the views of the peaks and valleys that surrounded us became more and more magnificent. When the trees gave way to the thin air of elevation, fields of wildflowers like Lupin, Paintbrush, Larkspur, and many others laid out before us. Cresting Mono Pass, the Sierras opened up like a book looking north towards Yosemite, south towards Kings Canyon, and west across the entire range, out onto Western California far below.
It was a full day’s ride to get to our Base Camp in the Pioneer Basin at over 10,000 feet but it was so worth it. Pioneer Basin is a hanging high alpine valley with a chain of seven lakes surrounded by meadows. Mt Crocker to the north, Mt Huntington to the east, and Mt Hopkins to the west create a three-sided bowl forming the basin with an open view south across the Mono Creek Valley to Mono Rock and beyond.
This was our hub for seven photographers and three horse packers. For the next 3 days, we hiked, rode, explored, and photographed the area overwhelmed by the natural beauty that surrounded us. I found that when everywhere you turn is a breathtaking vista the photo opportunities are infinite and it becomes a bit overwhelming.
“And into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul”
― John Muir
To say our camp was luxurious would be an overstatement but compared to what I’ve grown accustomed to in my backcountry travels, this could be considered a high-country cruise. We each had our own tents with perfectly comfortable air mattresses and the view from the latrine was stunning. Allen, our camp cook was amazing. His menu was varied, full of surprises, and the food was delicious. The pack crew went above and beyond to make this a memorable trip for all, from the way they handled the stock, to their engaging friendliness with us pilgrims. 🙂
There was no freeze-dried food in Allen’s kitchen. Always fresh, always from scratch. It’s all about the food and Allen did not disappoint.
“The clearest way to the Universe is through a forest wilderness ”
― John Muir
I never sleep better than when I’m snuggled up in my warm sleeping bag, breathing the cool clean mountain air, looking up at the Milky Way and the billions of stars that make up the night sky. In the Pioneer Basin, the air is so clear, and the area is so dark that the night sky explodes in stars. Struggling to keep my eyes open trying to spot the next shooting star, I drift off into a deep restful much-needed sleep.
“The morning stars still sing together, and the world, though made, is still being made and becoming more beautiful every day.” – John Muir
The mornings come early as we rise in the dark and prepare to catch the morning light. Allen, always had the coffee ready to ease the morning chill. The smell of breakfast would lead us back to camp at the end of the morning shoot.
In the stillness of the morning air, the lakes become mirrors.
“To sit in solitude, to think in solitude with only the music of the stream and the cedar to break the flow of silence, there lies the value of wilderness.” – John Muir
There is a peaceful meditative feeling sitting by a mountain stream. It is the sounds of water flowing through the rocks, combined with the breeze through the trees, while the smells of the Pine trees, wildflowers, and grasses surround you. When I’m there, in that moment, and I close my eyes and relax, I can feel my mind calm and my blood pressure drop.
The morning of the 5th day came far too quickly. The camaraderie and friendships developed over this trip will be remembered fondly.
(Photo courtesy of Randall Ball Photography)
I would like to thank Randy Ball and the people at Art of Seeing Photography as well as Allen and the Rock Creek Pack Station crew for making this trip so special for all of us.
If you are considering an immersive photography adventure to improve your skills, I highly recommend The Art of Seeing. Their trips provide so much more than photography.
Rock Creek Pack Station offers many trips, from day rides to 8-day cross-country adventures. You don’t have to go on a photography trip but if you go on any of these rides, don’t forget your camera.
https://www.rockcreekpackstation.com/
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